NORTHEAST MOUNTAIN PEOPLE
  • On Hiking (Home)
    • Southern New England Highest Summits
    • White Mountain Parsnip
  • About
  • Links

Interviews~ Reflections ~ Reviews ~ Reports ~ Advice ~ Humor 


WINTER (hiking) IS COMING! Are you ready?

11/26/2021

0 Comments

 
Picture
Although it isn't officially winter until December 21 (winter solstice), the weather gods don't care--they'll gleefully dump snow and freezing temperatures on us any day now (and have already got started in the mountains). Being prepared for safe winter hiking in the mountains of the northeast United States means having winter-worthy gear and a matching attitude. If you're contemplating winter hiking in the mountains for the first time in your life, unless you're a witless person you're probably at least a little anxious about preparation. But even experience doesn't always translate into preparedness: there's a little corner of hell reserved for us old timers called complacency. Whether new and anxious or old and careless, I hope you'll find this bulleted list helpful in your prep for the snow, ice and negative digits. 

Gear inventory and prep:
  • Base layers: Check winter clothing base layers (underwear, shirts, pants, fleece jackets and vests) for wear and tear. Pay attention to belt draw strings and cord-locks, zippers, stretchy cuffs and waist bands, and seams. Does everything still fit well? Is anything broken or worn? 
Picture
The waterproof/breathable layer has delaminated on the hood of this Marmot shell jacket, making it unreliable.
  • ​​​Shell layers: jackets, pants, gaiters, and outer mittens: Check both the inside and outside of the shell items for signs of wear, along with velcro, cord locks, drawstrings, and zippers. If you find that the breathable layer inside the shell is starting to delaminate from the outer layer, your shell is toast: time to buy a new one. But loss of waterproofing might be less noticeable, and waterproofing can become compromised (but not necessarily ruined) by dirt. Check out these instructions for cleaning and re-waterproofing your shell. Once you've done what you can do, it's time to test your shell. Put it on and get in a cold shower for about ten minutes, turning around a few times to get the water on all parts of the layer but not down the cuffs or into the hood. Hop out of the shower, dab off the outer water with a towel, and pull the shell inside-out to look for leakage. Don't be surprised if your shell is worn out--even the best quality shell jacket will retain good waterproofing and optimum breathability not much longer than a couple years of heavy use (less if abused). Mittens and pants, which typically see less intensive use, may last longer. 
  • Puffy jackets and vests: Check for tears in the fabric where down may be escaping. Rips can be repaired temporarily with duct tape but should be patched or pinched and sewn shut. Check for warmth: down and synthetic fibers will become degraded and compressed over time, reducing insulation value. If your jacket feels less warm to you this winter, it might be the jacket, not your metabolism. 
Picture
Pinched and sewn hole in a Columbia puffy down jacket. Some down was caught in the stitch.
  • Socks, mittens, hats, gaiters, buffs, and gloves: Check these items for thinning, rips, and wear holes. Thinning sock fabric will reduce insulation value and may cause other problems like blisters and inner boot fabric wear. 
  • Boots: Check boot seams and soles for delamination. Check the inside from toe to heel to see if the fabric it's worn through to the insulation layer. Make sure boot inserts are in good shape and not mildewy or worn through. Check the boot tread for excessive wear ("baloney skins"). Clean the boots (wash in cold water and dry thoroughly) and give them whatever annual waterproofing treatment the manufacturer calls for. Patch small tears and small delaminations with Shoe Goo or similar flexible and waterproof adhesive product, let dry for a day, then put the boots on and walk around to see if the repairs hold. To check for waterproofing, put the boots in a dishpan or sink and fill it up to a few centimeters below the upper end of the waterproof outer. Let stand for ten minutes, put the boots on without socks, and see how damp they are. Finally, walk around with them to see if they still fit you well. 
  • Goggles: Check straps, strap hardware, casing, and seams for wear and cracks; check optics for scratching which can reduce optical quality and increase fogging. 
  • Traction and axes: Check points for dullness. Check straps and stretchy webbing for cracks and rips; check chains for weak or broken links. Spikes can easily be sharpened with a tabletop grinder or more tediously with a file; or you can farm out the task to any shop that sharpens knives or landscaping equipment (note that each sharpening will reduce the length of the spikes, making them a little less effective each time. (Traction gear with longer spikes, like Hillsound Trail Crampons, will endure more trips to the sharpener than short spike brands like Microspikes). If you have adjustable crampons, be sure to check the adjustment pins and make sure they are pre-set to the length of your winter boots. Check ax hardware and tips for loose hardware connections. Sharpen the pick as necessary.  
Picture
No bueno: broken chain link and dull points on these Microspikes.
  • ​Snowshoes: Check all parts of the snowshoe for tears, rips, cracks, broken fasteners, and other signs of entropy. Strap them to your boots and walk around in soft turf or sand for a few minutes to see if they are working well. Check traction points and sharpen as necessary. Spray hinges with teflon dry lube spray. Most snowshoes can't easily be repaired at home--if you have problems, you may have to send them back to the manufacturer to fix (TSL brands snowshoes can be easily repaired at home with ordered replacement parts, including new crampon points). If you need to send away for repairs, be prepared to rent, borrow, or buy a replacement while you wait (it's always wise to check snowshoes in the spring and deal with repairs over the summer). 
  • Skis: Check skis and bindings for signs of wear, paying close attention to all surfaces including edges. Bring skis to a pro shop for proper  tuning and treatment. As a rule of thumb, skis should be tuned about once every 20 full days of use, but that's a rough average that doesn't take into account a lot of variables. If you used your skis a lot the prior winter without tuning, it's probably wise to bring them to the shop for a look over.
  • Poles: Check ski and trekking pole baskets, tips, shafts, segment binding fittings and/or cords, and wrist straps for wear and cracks. Use a piece of coarse wool or (lightly) a plastic scrubbie to clean oxidized debris and dirt from pole segments, then use a dry-drying Teflon-based lubricant spray to keep them sliding smoothly. Test poles: walk around with them a bit, adjust the length of adjustable poles and collapse them, and put a little pressure on the poles to see if the adjustments hold. Tighten any loose segment adjustments. Look down the length of the poles to check for warping. Warped poles are more likely to break and can't easily be straightened without making them worse--replace any warped poles or pole segments. Broken ski baskets and worn tips can be tricky to replace at home--bring to a ski pro shop for care. 
Picture
Removing chemical oxidization from this collapsible ski pole. with a plastic scrubbie.
  • Backpack: Check all parts of the backpack for wear. Pay special attention to buckles, straps, bottom panel, zippers, side pockets, and frame stays. Place a kitchen trash bag in the bottom of your pack and leave it there as an emergency inner waterproof layer for damp days. It's cheaper and more effective than a pack cover. 
  • Water bottles: check for cracking and leakage. 
  • Headlamps: Remove old batteries and replace with new lithium batteries (lithium performs better in cold temperatures). Check the brightness, straps, and casing, and refamiliarize yourself with the lamp settings. Make sure you have spare, fresh batteries in your long-day or overnight kit. Dispose of any batteries you are not sure of. 
Picture
Replace old headlamp batteries with new lithium batteries (which hold up better in cold temperatures).
  • Emergency kit/items: Check your first aid kit for adequate stock, and item wear and tear. Replace items as needed. Consider adding in a small vial of sunscreen for snow-glare, some electrolyte tablets or goo, some hand and/or foot warmers, and some moleskin for those feet that haven't worn winter boots in months. Replace any expired warmers with new ones (some warmers will expire before their expiration date--if a warmer feels grainy or hard to the touch or has had its wrapper breached, it's expired). Unroll and check emergency bivy bags and space blankets for wear and mildew. Mildew compromises waterproofing--if you have it, it's probably time for a new bivy (I always dry out my emergency bivy after each hike, even if I don't use it). Clean and check multi-tools and swiss army knives. Sharpen dull knife blades. Check your compass for cracks and dial readability. Check your emergency contacts & I.D. card for current information. 
Picture
Although these warmers will expire next year, I check them by feeling them through the plastic wrapper: if they feel grainy, they're no longer good.
  • Overnight (or emergency overnight) gear: Check sleeping bags for rips and patch or sew shut. Check for warmth by laying in the bag for an hour on a very cold night outside your house with a known temperature outside: if the sleeping bag no longer lives up to its cold rating, consider replacing it and/or downgrading it to a three season bag. A failing bag can be augmented with a emergency bivy or bag liner, but that increases the total weight of the warmth. Check all stoves for proper functioning: place stove and fuel in your freezer for a few hours before testing. Make sure fuel cannisters aren't low or depleted. If you use liquid fuel, use fresh fuel, not aged fuel, for winter trips. Check fire starting tools (matches, lighter, etc) to make sure they are adequate and functional. Seam-seal tents and check for rips and failing hardware. To check for waterproofing, set up and leave in your yard on a rainy day, then check for leaks. 
  • Electronic devices: Check your phone battery by putting the phone in your freezer for about 20 minutes to see if it crashes. Some phone models will mistakenly read cold temperatures as low battery level and will spontaneously shut down. If your device does this, consider getting a new battery or new phone, or else take extra precautions in keeping your phone warm while you hike. Check external backup phone batteries to be sure they hold a charge. Make sure any critical GPS apps on your phone are up-to-date and pre-loaded with the areas you intend to hike in (see my article on this subject). Dedicated GPS devices, location beacons, and cameras: check device function and subscriptions, replace worn batteries. Watches: replace batteries at the start of each winter season. 
  • Maps: Make sure your maps are in good shape and are still legible.
Picture
Cheapskate that I am, when this synthetic map started to rip a the seams, I sewed it back together with my sewing machine. But maybe it's time to replace it?
  • ​Club memberships, parking permits, "Hike Safe" Card, etc.: If you use these where you hike, be sure your subscription is up to date. 
  • Your ride: As I frequently remind people, statistically speaking you're more likely to die in a car accident on the way to a hike than you are to die while hiking. With that in mind, make sure your car has a good set of snow tires, and is otherwise winter-worthy and road worthy. Winter is not a time to be messing around with a worn out battery, failed heater, worn wiper blades, empty wiper fluid basin, worn brake shoes, or thin tire treads, especially if you're driving a bit to get to trailheads. I like to carry a collapsible snow shovel (a short-handled metal square shovel may be an ever better tool) in the back of my car for winter, and I always carry jumper cables, window scraper, a reflective break-down placard, a spare tire, a big can of Fix-A-Flat, a good car jack, a tow strap, a tire plug kit, and a tire pressure gauge. Some people like to also carry traction devices to help them get unstuck at snowy trailheads and on back roads.  
Picture
I keep this folding shovel in my car just in case I get snowed in at a trailhead.
​Mental and physical preparedness: 
  • Research: If you have specific winter hiking goals, research your trips in advance, paying attention to routes, potential bail-out/ escape routes, and typical trailhead parking and trail winter conditions on your route. Most trail conditions report websites allow you to look back in time and read last winter's reports. 
  • Backup bag: Consider keeping a few key spare items in a duffle bag in the trunk or back of your car, in case you (or a friend) forget to bring them. I keep extra lithium batteries and handwarmers, a single set of base layer clothing, socks, hat, gloves, buff, mittens, a few energy bars, empty spare water bottle, a couple spare maps covering areas I frequently hike in, and a simple gear repair kit with cord, straps, duct-tape, gear-ties, and needle & thread. I also use my car to store my light traction and snowshoes, so that I never forget them (but I bring my poles in to dry so that the adjustable sections will not freeze up).
  • Your body: Once you have your gear in order and have done your preparation, it's time to do 2-4 late fall, moderate shake-out hikes on familiar and less risky terrain during winter conditions (snow, cold temps). Bring your full complement of gear, even if you don't need it all, to help your muscles and cardio system get used to carrying the extra winter gear weight. Assess your conditioning on these hikes and use it as a baseline to determine the difference between what you're ready for now, and what you need to work up to. Pay attention to any signs your body is giving you that may suggest medical issues that need assessment or attention. ​ ​
Picture
A lot of preparation went into planning the non-traditional route for this successful 2016 hike up East Kennebago during a blizzard.
  • Get in the habit of periodically checking your gear over course of the winter season as described above, to reduce unwelcome surprises in the middle of nowhere. Sometimes even a small gear failure on a winter hike can set into motion a series of unfortunate events. Preparedness takes the edge off those odds. 
Safe winter hiking to you all!--Paul-William

0 Comments

BEATING THE HEAT: HOW TO HIKE IN HOT WEATHER

6/18/2021

0 Comments

 
Picture
Hikers enjoying a hot-day dip in Randolph, NH
​Some people prefer hiking in fall or winter to avoid the heat and the bugs (me, I don’t mind sweating and I’ve become desensitized to the bugs), but if you like hiking the summer or are compelled to hike in every season, there are some things you can do to improve your hot-weather hiking experience and safety. ​
​THE BASICS
Water is (almost) everything
Dehydration on a hot day can result in debilitating heat exhaustion or life-threatening heat stroke. If you don’t have a cast-iron gut like me (I frequently drink untreated mountain stream water), either bring plenty of water with you and/or bring a means of purifying wild water. Unfortunately, “plenty” is relative to your individual physiology and physical conditioning, the environmental conditions you’re hiking in (shade/full sun, temperature, wind, humidity), your level of activity, what you consumed prior to and during hiking, and the distance and elevation gain you are hiking.
Picture
Capturing water from a spring in a vacuum-insulated water bottle
Advice on the subject of water consumption during hiking is inherently vague: for instance, in an REI article on the subject of hydration, the authors suggest “a half liter of water per hour of moderate activity in moderate temperatures” without defining what “moderate” means. That being the case, you will have to get a sense of what your own needs are across a variety of conditions. In other words, don’t start your hiking hobby with a 15- mile hike on a 90 degree day, and always plan on having access to a little more water than you expect you’ll need. You can also keep your to-go water cool by freezing it the night before the hike or carrying it in an insulated thermos.
It’s not just water, it’s electrolytes:
When you exert yourself, especially on humid days, you sweat out important nutrients (especially sodium and potassium) that balance the chemistry of your body. If that chemistry is out of balance, you can “bonk”, i.e. lose energy rapidly, become nauseous, experience painful muscle cramps, or collapse. Electrolyte imbalance can exacerbate conditions that lead to heat exhaustion and heat stroke. To compensate for electrolyte loss, practice nutritional eating habits (especially in advance of your hike) and bring balanced food with you and/or bring electrolyte supplements. Natural foods that are good for electrolyte balancing include dairy products (including cheese, yogurt, and powdered milk), coconut water, pomegranate juice, watermelon, avocado, spinach, and bananas. ​
Picture
Nuun electrolyte tablets
Manufactured electrolyte supplements come in a variety of forms including pre-mixed drinks (like Gatorade), tablets to mix with water, “goo” or gel form supplements, and certain brands of energy bars. In the summer I always carry emergency electrolyte tablets in my 1st aide kit and I usually eat a couple bananas as part of my pre-hike breakfast. Some people pre-treat their to-go water with electrolytes. You can even freeze a liter of juice and or electrolyte water mixes the night before and enjoy a cool drink along the trail. If you are carrying a sleeping bag with you, you can wrap a pint or quart of ice cream in the bag, which will insulate it from melting for hours even on really hot days, and enjoy a cold and electrolyte-rich ice cream lunch.  ​
Picture
Elizabeth modeling a well-ventilated broad-brim hot weather hat and lightweight, light colored clothing; cooling waterfall in the background.
​How you dress matters: Dress for hot weather—bring lighter layers that you can dress down to (but don’t skimp on bringing warmer layers for later in the day or higher elevation—mountain weather is notoriously capricious). Shorts, skirts, or pants with zip-off legs are a good choice for hot weather. As a rule, darker colored clothing is going to be hotter under the sun (so leave your goth outfit at home)--go with light colors. In general, look for ultralight, breathable synthetic fabrics; silk is also naturally light and breathable.  Looser fitting clothing may also be more breathable than tighter fitting materials. Wear a hat made of thin or breathable fabric that will shield your head and face from the sun but won’t be too hot to wear. 
Hats with broad brims offer the best head protection but even a baseball cap will offer some sun protection.

​During your hike you can cool yourself by dipping your hat, bandana, shirt, or small pack towel in a creek and letting the water run over you, or plunge right in and take a dip—your clothing will likely dry off quickly on a hot day, but you could also take along a spare pair of shorts and a small pack towel. 
​

When resting, take your boots and socks off and let your feet cool (this will help reduce friction blistering, which is exacerbated by hot boots). For this reason, trail runners are often a better option than thick hiking boots on hot days.

Lastly, remember sunglasses because. . . 


​The devil is in the sun. If your route involves moderate to significant sun exposure (i.e. not just hiking heavily forested trails), bring sunscreen with a high SPF level (50+). If you do get sunburn, you’ll want to protect your skin from further damage; in such cases it’s wise to have brought a lightweight long sleeve shirt with you or an ultralight windbreaker. This can be helpful when your burnt skin—now less able to thermoregulate your body temperature—results in you getting a chill rapidly when temperatures drop later in the day (it’s even possible to become hypothermic by way of sunburn). Be aware that sunburn can contribute to heat exhaustion and heat stroke (as well as increasing your risk of developing skin cancer) by direct heating and by reducing your skin’s ability to thermoregulate. 
Picture
Hiker cooling off under a cascade.
Understand the symptoms of dehydration and act to remedy it immediately. Quench your thirst when you feel thirsty. Eat when you feel hungry. Stop and rest (preferably in the shade or in a breezy area) when you feel tired. Don’t wait until you’re exhausted. Examine your urine when you pee: dark yellow urine is a sign of dehydration; whitish urine is a sign of good hydration. Intentionally slowing your pace and resting more frequently can help reduce overheating and dehydration, too. 
Picture
Image: CDC
Understand the symptoms of heat exhaustion and heat stroke (follow the link for the full run-down). In a nutshell, heat exhaustion begins to develop when you’re moderately dehydrated, with or without an electrolyte imbalance. It is characterized by moist skin (often described as clammy or cool, but not always so if someone has been exerting themselves), exhaustion, and can include dizziness, muscle cramping ("heat cramps") and nausea. Heat exhaustion is treatable by getting yourself in the shade and/or cooling yourself in a brook, drinking and eating to replenish lost water and nutrients, and resting. If left untreated, heat exhaustion can lead to heat stroke—a life threatening and harder to treat condition. Heat stroke is characterized by extreme exhaustion or collapse, hot, dry skin with elevated body temperature, and impaired mental status—those suffering from heat stroke may not be aware of their danger. Unless treated it leads to loss of consciousness, organ failure, and death. People with heat exhaustion will usually need help—get them out of the heat, cool them off with water or wetted clothing, and if they are conscious and can tolerate it, feed them fluids and food—then help them find the shortest way out of the woods. This may require rescue services. Recovery times can be long and permanent organ damage is possible.  

​If you are doing all of the things you need to do to remain cool(er) and hydrated but you still feel unusually fatigued, consider shortening your hike or turning back.
​
​PREPARATION MATTERS
  • Check weather forecasts before you go and adjust your itinerary accordingly. On really hot days, think about downscaling your ambitions.
  • Plan your water: bring it AND be prepared to find it. In doing the latter, know where water is along your route (consult maps and guide books to make sure there is reliable water at reasonable intervals). Avoid routes that are very dry in the summer. Expect headwaters streams and springs to run dry during droughty conditions or later in summer when water levels typically run low. 
  • Eat good meals containing balanced food before your hike, and hydrate well. Do this the night before and the morning of your hike. My own practice includes consuming lots of fluids upon awaking (including some electrolyte rich juices or fruits), then drinking a good 16 ounces of water just before setting foot on the trail. Keep in mind that caffeinated coffee and tea may cause you to urinate more frequently and lose fluids faster. Alcoholic beverages also tend to dehydrate your body. Boozing heavy the night before your hike is therefore not a good idea.
  • Get proper sleep the night before your hike. Being tired is going to decrease your body’s ability to deal with heat and fatigue.
  • Double check your gear and clothing before leaving the house and make sure you’re prepared for the heat.
  • Plan out a heat-friendly hike and avoid heat-unfriendly hikes (see below). 
Picture
Hiking in cloudy weather or light rain can be a good option on hot days.
DESTINATION AND TIMING
In addition to preparing with appropriate gear and self-care, you can also make your hot weather hike more enjoyable by tweaking your itinerary and the timing of your hike.

​Time of day, season, and weather:
Hot spring days can often be harder to bear than hot summer days because of the lack of leaves on deciduous trees and the fact that your skin and body aren't yet accustomed to full-on heat after all that winter hiking—don’t underestimate the difficulty of hot spring weather hiking.

​On hot days either in spring or summer, it makes sense to start hiking earlier in order to get some miles under your belt before the sun heats up the air. Alternately, you can start hiking later in the morning and enjoy the early evening cool-off along your descent—but keep in mind that (if weather conditions are otherwise constant) early morning temperatures are typically going to be cooler than early evening temperatures. Take advantage of rain forecasts: predictions of light rain on really hot days can be excellent conditions to hike in as long as you don’t mind getting a little wet, but keep in mind that warm rain at low elevations can turn into cold, hypothermia-inducing rain at higher elevations. During the hot summer days of my 1994 Appalachian Trail through-hike I often hiked in the rain in a T-shirt without a rain jacket; this practice not only cooled me off fast it also kept my rain jacket dry for use later in the day and helped wash some of the sweaty crud out of my shirt. 
​Route: You can defeat some of the heat by choosing routes and destinations that are cooler. For instance, treeline in the northeast (over 4,500 feet on average) is often ten to twenty degrees cooler than valley temperatures and can be cloudier and windier. Clouds reduce heating and winds will aid in the evaporation of sweat and the conduction of heat away from the body, which increases cooling. 
Picture
Even lower elevation mountains can offer cooling breezes: on summer days rising hot air in valleys can cause strong updrafts of cooling wind on exposed areas of higher ground, especially around cliff faces. In the northeast, the prevailing natural wind is often from the west or southwest on sunny days, so hiking the western side of the mountain may be windier and more cooling than hiking the eastern side. Keep the sun in mind, though: exposure above treeline may increase the risk of sunburn. ​
Deep, wooded stream valleys are often cooler on average than ridges or flats, and can offer the added pleasure of a dunk in a creek. As a rule, the northerly slopes of mountains are going to be cooler because they have less sun exposure, ridge tops are going to be warmer (but windier if they’re exposed), and oak or pine dominant woods are going to be warmer than maple, birch, or boreal spruce-fir forests. The relative warmth of these forest types also mirrors how soon brooks will dry out in summer. Open fields and meadows are among the hottest landscapes in the summer while areas with significant boulder fields will trap cool air and may even hold ice into the summer; these places can provide drafts of natural air conditioning (some famous examples include places like New Hampshire’s Ice Gulch, Devil’s Hopyard, and Subway in King Ravine, Vermont’s White Rocks Ice Beds and Smuggler’s Notch, and Maine’s Mahoosic Notch, among others). Planning hikes that place a good swimming hole near the end of the hike can be both pleasurable and advantageous; on really hot days plan hikes with swimming holes at several points along the route.
​
By choosing appropriate destinations and routes, and timing your hike with daily heating/ cooling cycles,  you can often craft a hike that maximizes comfort on a hot day. For instance, starting early up a wooded ridgeline or warm side of the mountain in the morning (which would be hot in the afternoon), then traversing an open windy ridge mid-day, and finally descending along a cool mountain stream in a forested ravine in the afternoon is an excellent itinerary to beat the heat. 
Picture
An early morning hike up to Glassface Ledges in Maine on a hot day offered delightful views above the morning valley fog.

0 Comments

THINGS THAT BITE: PART 3: NO-SEEUMS

5/22/2021

0 Comments

 
Picture
A No Seeum feasting on a finger, to scale.
Photo: Creative Commons
If you own a tent, you’ve probably noticed that the holes in the bug mesh screening are quite fine—typically over 1,000 holes per square inch, much finer than your average window screen in a house. The holes have to be this fine in order to keep out “No Seeums" (Ceratopogonidae), the tiniest of biting flies, so tiny that you have to squint in order to see them. In fact, if it’s dark out, you won’t see them at all, unless you happen to shine your headlamp closely on one as it feasts on you. No Seeums, also known as “punkies” and “moose flies” are a family of biting midges 1-3 millimeters in length and translucent grey in color. They have a striped wing pattern that is barely visible to the naked eye in larger specimens. Their tiny size (about half to one quarter the size of a Black Fly) and translucent color makes them nearly invisible. If you find yourself suddenly feeling itchy in the dawn or dusk, or after dark, but can’t identify the cause, you may be the victim of a No Seeum attack. Despite their tiny size, their bite packs a punch, and like Black Flies, they slice holes in the skin then lick out the blood. 

Season & Habitat
Here in the northeast, No Seeums are most active in the twilight hours, on moderate to warm nights in the spring and early summer, near wetlands and still bodies of water. They prefer damp conditions; drought will substantially reduce their numbers. Unlike other biting flies, their larvae are not aquatic. No Seeums are not known to be vectors of pathogens in the northeast, but some people are allergic to their bites (the allergy can cause painful, long lasting itchiness). 
Picture
Closeup of a No-Seeum. Photo: USDA
Ecology and Behavior
Like other species of biting fly, adult No Seeums feed on plant nectars; females will procure blood for nutrients used in egg production. Like mosquitos and black flies, No Seeums tend to attack in mobs. Overall, No Seeums are more localized and less omnipresent than mosquitos and black flies and they tend to travel less far in search of blood; sometimes it is possible to escape them by moving away from their home turf a relatively short distance, and it’s quite easy to out-walk them. I’ve never had a problem with them while hiking—only when I stop and settle down for the evening. They are too tiny to bite through clothing but can easily slip under cuffs and down collars. They will bite any area of exposed skin. They will sometimes pass through house window screens to bite people inside.

Thwarting No-Seeums
Cold weather or a strong breeze will drive No Seeums away, as will campfire smoke, natural insect repellants (such as lemon-Eucalyptus concoctions) and man-made chemical repellents (DEET, Picaridin) insect repellants. While most tents come equipped with mesh netting fine enough to keep out No-Seeums, you can easily carry them into your tent on your clothing or skin—shine a headlamp near the apex of your tent after you get inside, and squash any that came in with you (or else they will find you later). If you’re sleeping in a lean-to in No-Seeum habitat, they will come inside the lean-to to bite—in which case you could protect yourself with an insect repellent or with an over the sleeping bag mesh bug net—but make sure you buy netting with very fine holes (some cheap bug nets on the market aren’t fine enough to keep out No Seeums). There are few fates more torturous than being bit all night by nearly invisible bugs. 

​If you do end up reacting to No-Seeum bites, consider anti-inflammatory creams containing Benadryl or other salves to reduce itchiness. 
​

0 Comments

THINGS THAT BITE: PART 2: BLACK FLIES

5/16/2021

1 Comment

 
Picture
Black fly (photo: USDA)

Spring is one of my favorite hiking season—the snow has melted off the peaks, the days are getting longer, warmer, and sunnier, and the wildflowers are in full array across the forest floor. It’s almost powerful enough to make me forget that dreadful plague on spring hiking --the black fly.
Black Flies (Simuliidae) are speedy black gnats that attack in mobs. They are completely black in color and have a distinctly hunched thorax. There are over 2,000 species of black fly worldwide with over 200 species in the United States alone. Black flies are sometimes mistaken for “eyeball gnats” (Liohippelates--a late spring/ summer species of annoying gnat which licks the eye mucus of animals but doesn’t bite) and other small, non-biting flies that tend to congregate in large numbers in the spring (mayflies for instance) but aren’t attracted to human beings.

Season and Habitat
Black Flies only breed in fast-flowing water (they love mountain streams); their larvae attach to rocks and filter feed on algae and bacteria. The adults emerge from the water in the spring. Since spring is relative to elevation as well as latitude, “black fly season” in the northeast may end in the lowlands just as it is beginning on the peaks. Dry spring weather will knock populations down; wet springs will bring them out with a vengeance. Most black fly populations are done by mid-July even at the highest elevations. Occasionally, in the late summer, if conditions are sufficiently wet, a few black flies may return, but these are usually short-lived, localized outbreaks. Black flies are intolerant of polluted waters, so a robust black fly population can be a good indicator of a healthy aquatic habitat. Many animals feed on black flies including various bird species, other insects (like dragonflies), fish, (especially trout), and amphibians. 
Picture
Black fly larvae attached to rock in a brook (photo: USDA)
Ecology and Behavior
Male and female black flies feed on plant nectars, not blood. Only the female black fly will bite for blood: she does so to procure nutrients for egg production. Although black flies aren’t known to be a host to pathogens in the northeast United States, they do leave painful, itchy, and lingering welts. Unlike mosquitos-- connoisseurs who delicately drill into their hosts-- black flies are butchers; they gouge a tiny hole in the skin with their knife-like mouthparts, apply an anticoagulant saliva, and then lick up the blood. They prefer to bite high but will go low often enough to keep you guessing—I’ve found black flies biting between my sandaled toes from time to time. Black flies have acute senses for detecting hosts from a distance but they tend to be somewhat more attracted to darker clothing (which more closely resembles animal fur).

When black flies are in full swing they can assault you in such numbers to make you want to jump off a cliff. They tend to fly around annoyingly for quite a while, landing briefly again and again before they settle down to bite. This is a successful tactic (and possibly a genetically coded behavior--one shared by other species of biting flies): the more you aggravate the victim, tickling their skin and making them fruitlessly swat around, the harder it is for the victim to notice when and where the fly lands and bites. Black flies are masters at finding the tiniest patch of skin unprotected by bug repellent—you could take a bath in bug repellent and a black fly will still find that one spot you missed or rubbed it off. They will crawl into your clothing around cuffs to bite beneath. Even when they are not biting, they will get in your eyes, mouth, and ears and will tickle your skin. Black fly bites itch maddeningly, which benefits the black fly population as a whole --itched wounds will bleed and become desensitized to biting, making it easier for other black flies to procure blood from you. ​​
Picture
Black flies swarming in the arctic (photo: NicolasPerrault, Creative Commons)
Thwarting Black Flies
Bug repellent is a must during black fly season (take it with you, as it will wear off when you sweat); I don’t find much difference between manufactured chemical repellents (DEET, Picaridin), or natural repellents (such as lemon-Eucalyptus concoctions, etc.) but I do find that I have to apply a lot of it to discourage black flies and re-apply it during the hike when I sweat it off. I apply it to all areas of exposed skin (except around my eyes, lips, and nostrils), on my hat, and around my collar and cuffs. Even this will not stop them from flying annoyingly around my head. I always wear a hat or keep handy a bandanna to cover my head, and I keep a mesh head net in my pack for the worse black fly days. 

Black flies are good enough reason to avoid some places altogether in the spring (in the arctic and subarctic spring they can be numerous enough to be life-threatening), but you can pick your days carefully: cold weather or a stiff wind will thwart them (but as soon as you take shelter from the wind, they will be waiting there for you).  Black flies are active only during the day and will avoid dark places—you can take refuge from them in the back of a lean-to, an overhang cave, or even a dense thicket of evergreens. They will mob you most when you are taking a break, and they tend to loiter in places where hikers congregate. The longer you stop, the more black flies will find you. Keeping up a good hiking pace can reduce biting—although black flies are fast, a moving target is harder for them to zero in on. When resting, I’ve sometimes succeeded in diverting some of their mob by placing my sweaty backpack as a scent decoy a few feet away from me and watching while they fruitlessly attack it. When camping, the smoke from a fire can discourage black flies (in old time outdoors language, lighting a fire for this purpose is called "smudging").

Because you will not be able to avoid getting bit by black flies if you hike in the northeast in the spring, it’s helpful to have a salve of some kind to coat your black fly bites and keep the itching down. ​

1 Comment
<<Previous

    TOPICS

    All
    Advice
    Gear
    Great Small Peaks
    Hazards
    Hikes To Try
    Mountain People
    Nature
    Philosophy
    Trip Reports

    Humor (The Parsnip)

    RSS Feed

    Picture
    Visit Our Facebook Page


    Picture
Proudly powered by Weebly
  • On Hiking (Home)
    • Southern New England Highest Summits
    • White Mountain Parsnip
  • About
  • Links